Hard to fit size? Join the club!

In my grandmother’s time in China, many people - those who could afford it - had their clothes custom made by tailors.  Over time, manufacturers figured out that it would be more efficient for them if they mass produced clothes in “average” sizes that would require only minor alterations at the point of sale, allowing individual shops to buy and stock more inventory.  This is how ready-to-wear came into being, and it has brought convenience to our life.  While this works wonderfully in most situations, there are still many of us left behind with off-the-rack clothes that don’t quite work. Let me give you an example: In China, my home country, I am considered tall though I am only a bit above average by Western standards.  In high school, I was about 30 pounds heavier than I am today, so by Chinese standards I was considered a giant in those days!  I could not find any decent ready to wear clothes to buy, and in my summer job (working as a sauce preparer at the Renaissance Hotel restaurant) I had to wear a boy’s uniform!  Trust me, it was hard to think of myself as pretty back then!

You see, our so-called mainstream sizes are actually controlled by manufacturers. Over the years I have worked in fashion, I rarely meet any women who don’t have any complaints about their body, especially when they can not find their idealized size to fit them.  Sometimes, they may start to daydream about going on a diet or having plastic surgery, so that they can fit into what they believe to be ideal clothes.  I call this the Cinderella syndrome.  If we fit into that special “shoe size”, we will meet our “prince” - i.e., find our ideal, whether an actual prince or some fantasy vision of ourselves.  But think of all the time, effort, money and energy that is wasted trying to fit some delusional, external idea of beauty! This happens to plus size women even more.  Ironically, the average American women’s size is 14-16.  In the real world, not some designer’s fantasy world, plus size in America should be normal size.  

In fact, speaking from personal experience with my clients, I can say that many plus size women are not even overweight - they may be big, healthy and athletic and not simply fit the fashion model ideal.  Not only plus size women have issues with fit, either - I have clients and friends who are petite and sometimes find themselves shopping children’s sizes to find something to wear! So please know, if you struggle to find ready to wear clothes that fit you properly, YOU ARE NOT ALONE.

I want to share with you a few ideas to solve this body/fit puzzle.  First, you need to have a clear understanding of your body type, and know which areas to minimize, where to enhance, and where to balance.  Secondly, you need to have some basic knowledge of what vendor will fit you and then pay attention to the measurements and try a few.  For myself, I’ve learned I have a wider shoulder and smaller hip than typical.  I often wear a A-line skirt to create an hourglass shape, which works for me.

One thing I love about living in America (and especially Austin) is that it’s really O.K. here to be different.  In my view, it is just like our culture, and our personality, sometimes we are different.  As people more and more accept differences in the world, we just need to face the fact that not everybody can fit so-called mainstream clothes sizes.  BUT, that absolutely does not mean we have to sacrifice looking good!  There ARE good choices out there.  You may have to work harder (or find someone to work harder for you) than the mainstream body type person to flatter your body type in the right way, but you don’t have to look like I did in the boy’s uniform in high school!

I was inspired to write on this topic because during the course of my daily fashion online research I saw an truly fabulous plus-size dress - this is one of the best plus size dresses I’ve ever seen.  It has almost all the features you would look for:

• Washable knit fabric that flows gently over your curves without clinging.
• A polished and flattering silhouette. V-neck to longate the neckline, shape-defining bodice, elbow sleeves and knee length
• Three beauiful simple colors to choose from
• And it is only $69.99!

Finally, I need to plug my business a bit.  As with many things in life, you can absolutely do a fine job finding fashions, outfits, and looks for yourself...if you have the time, if you have the eye for it, if you have the passion for it, if you want to deal with running around, shopping multiple vendors, returning items, etc.  Or, you can do what most successful people do, and hire an expert to work with you, spend the time, energy and effort as your agent in the marketplace, looking for the best things out there on your behalf, and handling all the grief that comes with shopping as well as providing a keen eye and an honest opinion.  After an initial meeting and discussion, and taking some measurements, I can be out in the marketplace on your behalf finding you great clothes, helping you understand how they can be worn with your existing wardrobe, and providing results very quickly!  The time commitment is minimal - my clients are busy so I don’t waste their time taking them around to stores.  Much of what I provide to clients I find online.  At Nordstrom, I learned the meaning of service, and in my business I take service to the next level.  If you would like to see what I mean, please get in touch.  

Spring Wardrobe Planning Pays Off in Texas

Greetings!  I hope you are all off to a great start this year.  As the spring season is approaching, I recently got hired to do a number of closet reviews.  I finally have a moment to sit down and elaborate on this topic a little bit more.  

If you live in Texas and looking good and spending wisely matters to you, the spring season is the most important fashion season because of our climate.  The weather here is springlike for most of the year - the wardrobe investment we make in spring can usually last at least until early fall.  Spring is therefore the best time of year to do a closet cleaning, organizing and review, and then make a wardrobe buying plan for yourself - doing so will give you the best bang for your buck.

There is still time to review your closet and put together a plan to get yourself ready for a great spring and the rest of 2013.  If you prefer to do your own closet review and purchase plan, I’d like to share with you what I learned from my teacher, noted image master Carol Davidson:

1.  Clarify your own unique style. Look in magazines or online and begin to assemble a file of items that appeal to you.  Think about what they share in common - perhaps it's the colors, silhouettes, styles or manufacturers?  Begin to cultivate (or refine) your style so that you know what to look for and consistently love your look.  Keep in mind, some of the looks might not be suitable to your physical condition.  

2.  Identify your assets - and then flaunt them!  I'm not sure why,  but we all seem to dwell on the negative. Why not take the time and energy you'd use to hide a challenge area and instead think about your assets and how you can best show them off?

3.  Assess your wardrobe.  Try to understand what works and what doesn't, and why.  Let go of the things that are simply not useful.  "Just do it."  Give discarded items a second life by donating them or giving them to a friend.

4.  Don't put off alterations or repairs.  There is nothing more frustrating than having an item that you could wear and enjoy, if only... Just as you schedule everything else in your smart phone, take the time to schedule these activities as well.

5.  Organize your closet.  Does this seem overwhelming?  Split this task into one or two hour chunks, over the course of several weeks. Think about your wardrobe routine.  Would it make sense to organize your closet by item, by color or by outfit?  Play some music and focus on creating a sanctuary of organized items that make you deliriously happy!

6.  Find new ways to combine your clothes.  Pick one item each week and challenge yourself to come up with a new way to wear it.   (FYI, many of you don't really need more items...just some fresh ways to wear what they own.  That's where I can help!)

7.  Make a shopping list.  Do not - I repeat - do not - go into a store without a list of what you need.  This will keep you from coming home with the 'nice-to-haves' as opposed to the 'need-to-haves.'

8.  Make a conscious decision to make wiser choices.  Assuming an item fits both your budget and your body, ask yourself:  Do you love it?  Does it flatter you?  Does it represent you at your best?

9. Make a point to add color.  No one can live in all neutrals all the time.  Easy ways to add a splash of color are by way of a bag, shoe, nail color or as part of a print.  Not only will color add visual interest to any outfit, it can help you get through any gray days.

10.  Discover that comfort and style need not be mutually exclusive.  Take the time to search out items that hit the mark in both categories.  No one should suffer for fashion.  However, no one should  sacrifice it for comfort, either.

11.  Give yourself permission to shop for the whole outfit.  So many people are frustrated because they have orphan items (aka items that don't have a companion piece) in their closet.  When considering a new item, either make sure that you own two to three items to go with it, or take the time to hunt for the complete ensemble.

12.  Learn to accept compliments graciously. They will come!

Holiday party - What to wear?

I personally think the holiday season is not only a time to celebrate the joy of the year - family and friends gathering, festive food, exchanging of gifts - but it can also be the most emotionally volatile time of year as well.  Everyone, whether in their companies or in their families, tends to take stock of themselves and their situations as the holidays also coincide with year-end.  There is always pressure to “look good” or “look successful,” as well as to feel good and successful ourselves and please those important to us.  Retailers understand this, and they know how to pull the heartstrings to get us to open our wallets.  Kids write their wishful letters to Santa, and those of us who are parents want to do our best to fulfill our kids’ wishes even sometimes when doing so gives us conflict.  And of course, we have the holiday party invitations and the pressure that comes with celebrating the season with friends and colleagues before we spend time with our families.

I can’t really tell you how to handle the kids’ gift wishes - this is primarily a fashion blog after all - but I would like to share my thoughts about what to wear to the holiday parties you’re likely preparing to attend.

First, take a deep breath!  (Doesn’t that feel better?)

It is very possible you already have just what you need to put your holiday look together, sitting right there in your closet.  Or maybe you will just need to buy one or two dazzling pieces.  

Let me help you to put some potential outfits together!

Let’s start with a basic check list - if you already have one of the following, you are in good shape!

• Little black/navy/red/wine (you name it, any dark color) dress
• Dark wash, well fitted jeans
• Dark blazer
• Silk blouse
• Simple pencil skirt
• Pumps
• Wool/Cashmere/Cotton & silk sweaters

Here’s my suggested additions to complete your outfit!

Gloves:   Many of us forget about this fabulous winter accessory that can marry fashion and function.  Have fun and try on different colors, prints and lengths.  Long leather or satin gloves that reach the elbow can add a bit of style and sophistication to sleeveless attire.  Wear a pair in a deep-jeweled tone like garnet, sapphire or emerald to add a pop of color to a simple black dress.  If you don’t care for long gloves, go with a shorter pair with embellishment.

Scarves:  I do love me some scarves!  I am a big fan of scarves with unique prints.  One of my favorite things about scarves is that you never need to fit INTO a scarf!  Extra holiday indulgences have zero impact on your ability to wear a scarf, and adding one to your look creates an instant dressed-up feel.  If you have a busy working day with an event on the schedule afterwards, you may not have time to go home and change.  Add a silk scarf on your neck, and off you go! 

Sequins or paillettes: Get ready to shine!  A sequined dress in black, gold, or silver makes for the perfect outfit this holiday season.  Too much of a good thing?  Try a sequined tank or jacket you can pair with practically anything – from your favorite dark wash denim to a go-to-work pencil skirt or simple trouser.  For just a bit of sparkle, add a narrow sequined belt or clutch.  Remember, the more sequins you have, the less jewelry you need.

Red: If you have your favorite shade of red living somewhere in your closet, this is the perfect time to bring it out.  Scarlet red, rust red, plum red, any shade of red can be the base of a great festive outfit.  If you feel red is a bit too much for you, opt for red nail color or a red lipstick instead. (Be sure to wear a nude lip liner to avoid any bleeding of color into fine lines around the mouth.)

Statement jewelry:  This can be as simple as a diamond stud necklace, a drop of pearl, or can be as dramatic as a pair of chandelier earrings or a chunky necklace, or as fun as a holiday theme broach. Make sure it suits your personality.  If you struggle to decide, remember simple is beautiful. 

If you’re going to be driving, please drive safe and alert!  I don’t know if it’s just me, but it seems that every holiday season I see more accidents and near-accidents - I think people get more easily distracted at this time of year.  Stay alert, use these tips, RELAX and enjoy your holiday season!

Fashionomics 101: Maximize Your ROI

A recent Wall Street Journal article, “Fall Fashion Forecast” comes to the conclusion that trend is dead.  This further emphasizes the points I made in June when I wrote,  “Follow your style- make the trend work for you”.  

But this leads to another question:  how should we manage our wardrobes?  Do you feel overwhelmed and unsure of what to add to your wardrobe?  Or, conversely, are you in the other camp and feel like you might not be able to control yourself?  

Either way, now could be just the time to assess your fashion capital and re-balance your fashion portfolio.  Here are some guidelines that I have learned:

Capitalize on your assets.  Take a long, hard look at your body from head to toe.  What are your most valuable assets that make  your look uniquely yours?  What are you working with - fabulous curves, great legs, high cheekbones etc?  Only when you know what your assets are can you make sound purchases that naturally highlight them.  Because assets change over time, be sure to focus on what is working NOW rather than what has worked in the past.  You have evolved, and your clothing should as well.

Take stock.   It's difficult to put together great outfits if you are low on inventory.  Just before the fall and spring fashion seasons hit, assess what you already own.  Do your clothes fit and flatter you?  Are they current and in good condition?  Do they represent the best version of you and the image you would like to project?  If there's inventory in your closet that's not working for you, it's time to write it off and then re-stock.  Remember the three step process: inventory, edit, and shop. Invest the time just twice a year and enjoy the dividends all year long.

 


Minimize your liabilities.  First know that you are not alone.  We all have liabilities that seem to stay with us for longer than they should.  Here is a sampling of some liabilities that my clients have shared over the years:

• Shopping to fill an emotional void ("retail therapy") rather than shopping for items that are needed
• Not shopping because there are too many choices and it seems overwhelming
• Inaccurate or out-of-date self-image
• Getting all fashion advice from an opinionated friend or family member rather than building your own personal style
• Buying based on price rather than need
• Investing in high-end items without a wardrobe plan

Whatever your fashion liabilities, make friends with them and make a plan!  Get out of your clothing rut by breaking habits that are not serving your best interests.

Diversify your fashion portfolio.  Smart investors have a diversified portfolio.  Similarly, savvy dressers have clothes for every aspect of their life; they are not just invested in one area of their life (i.e. work clothes).  A diverse fashion portfolio includes outfits for dressy parties, informal social gatherings, work, weekend activities, exercise, travel, and more.  Do you have enough of the right clothing for all of the different situations you find yourself in?  Think about how you spend your time and then add to your wardrobe accordingly.

Accrue interest. Your fashion choices tell the story of who you are or aspire to be. You should be getting results from the time and money that you are investing into your wardrobe.  Those results might include compliments from others, more confidence, and an overall feeling of well-being.  They might also result in a job offer, a promotion, a date, and so on.  Now THAT is the kind of accrued interest you are looking for, so go ahead and put your style to work!

Seasonless Style Made Simple

This time of year is tricky to dress for, even though stores and magazines would have us think otherwise.  Many of us are still in summer mode, and rightfully so - while temperatures can vary widely, there are still enough warm days that it's still a bit early to say goodbye to summer clothing.  So how do you begin to migrate your closet (and your state of mind) to fall?  Here are some tips I’ve learned on how to make a smooth and stylish transition.


Take Cover - A good rule when transitioning into fall is to always have at least one part of your body covered, whether it is your legs or your shoulders.  Try pairing a summer dress, skirt, or even heavier fabric shorts with darker hosiery to give off a sleek, fall effect.  Alternatively, cardigans, or blazers easily take your sleeveless tops or dresses into fall, and can be added or subtracted as needed.  

Embrace the Dark Side - By all means, keep wearing your summer whites and creams as long as temperatures permit, but pair with darker neutrals or one of this fall's colors.  For a list of fashion's favorite hues of the season, check out Pantone's Fashion Color Report here.

Accessorized and Dangerous -  Balance is the key concept with accessorizing.  If you wear a sundress, opt for chunky statement jewelry.   Also, don't forget to swap out your handbag.   It is time for us to say goodbye to straw and canvas bags, and hello to embossed leather and suede!  The addition of a lightweight scarf - especially one showcasing this season's prints - is another great way to embrace the new season. And why not give a nod to the menswear trend and top off your look with a fedora?

It's a Shoe In - Sandals are still fine at this time of year, as long they have more coverage and 'visual' weight than a strappy summer sandal.   With summer skirts and dresses, why not try a shoe with one of this fall's chunkier heels, or even an updated ankle bootie?  Similarly, your summer capris will find new life this season when teamed with an oxford or 'slipper' flat.

Let's Make Up - It's a good time to transition to fall makeup shades, but the switch doesn't have to be drastic.  Simple adjustments like opting for tawnier shades can make all the difference.  Swap your sheer summer lip gloss with a creamy lipstick formula.  And don't forget about your nails!  Exchange summer shades of aqua and mint green for a burgundy, purple, or deep red.

Quicker than you can say "fall fashion," cooler days and nights will soon be upon us.  Until then, continue to enjoy your favorite summer items - albeit in a fall-friendly kind of way.

Casual Chic - the solution for Austin's lifestyle

When I visited Austin for the first time in November 2003, I had been living in Toronto, so unsurprisingly I quickly fell in love with Austin’s weather.  Wearing shorts to Baby Acapulco to sip my first-ever margarita provided me with an unforgettable introduction.

I’ve also learned that Austin presents a fashion challenge for many - how do you “keep it Austin weird” while staying well-dressed?  It can be very easy for casual to slouch over into sloppy or lazy.  Readers have recently emailed me questions like:

• How would you define “casual chic”?
• How can one dress well during a full day that includes roles as businesswoman and soccer mom?
• What can I wear during the Austin fall and winter, when the “seasonal” looks I see online and in stores is not imagining Austin weather?  I’m not going to wear sweaters with temperatures still in the 90s!

First, let me say that if someone tells you that “fashion is pain”, ignore them.  Whether or not the statement is true (I for one don’t think it is), the point is that you must be comfortable to appear stylish.  It is simply not sustainable to force yourself into something that either isn’t you or isn’t comfortable for the situation.  Fashion does not serve you if it doesn’t fit you, physically and psychologically.  You want to be yourself, not a mannequin.  Whether it happened in high school or last week, most of us can remember some first date where either we or our date tried too hard to impress, through excessive boasting or extravagant behavior of some kind.  How did that work out?  As with dating, your style needs to fit you as a whole person to work for the long run.    

Casual chic seems to be the unofficial dress code that embodies the Austin lifestyle.  The way I define this broadly is:

1. Fabrics that are easy to wear and easy to wash
2. Clothes that are traditionally comfortable to wear, like jeans, khaki pants, skirts, knit tops, cotton shirts, flowing dresses etc.
3. A look that is stylish, personal and a bit fashion forward with the right accessories. It projects a sense of easiness and effortlessness  -  meaning one does not spend too much time to much the look together, yet everything visually goes well with each other.
4. The outfit is not label oriented and the look does not attempt to project wealth and power.   
5. The outfit can be used for multiple functions.  For example, most creative or high-tech industry working environment, family gathering, friends' party, after work cocktail, and some dinner party etc.

To be clear, this does not mean t-shirts, shorts and flip-flops.  There needs to be some effort to put the outfits together initially, and the looks that result can be casual but should “look” effortless.

Casual chic as described above is also the answer I would provide to the businesswoman soccer mom who needs to juggle multiple roles during a day.  Here are some examples of well put together casual chic looks.


Now, all the photos I’ve used here are fashion photos.  You absolutely don’t need to wear heels to be “casual chic”!  Use the looks from the ankles up as a guideline, and add some casual, comfortable flats (but not sneakers), and you’ll have it.

In my next post I will answer the fall-winter question.

Uniqlo in New York - Online vs. Storefront Fashion Retail

Last week, I joined Google+ after being frustrated with Facebook forcing me (and all its users) into using its Timeline. While exploring Google+ I found this recent the New Yorker article discussing one of my favorite retailers, Uniqlo, through one of my friend's share.

I have been a fan of Uniqlo since going to their stores in Shanghai in 2002. Uniqlo’s parent company, Japan’s Fast Retailing, also owns other of my favorite brands in fashion retail, including Theory and Comptoir Des Cotonniers. In the decade since becoming a loyal customer of Fast Retailing’s brands, I’ve found the products to be fashion forward, price competitive and high quality - and equally as importantly, I’ve had good experiences as a customer at their stores in various parts of the world.

The New Yorker article led me to think about how retailers should balance the needs of providing staffing and in-person customer service versus expanding their online business. Uniqlo in the U.S. only sells out of its stores - they do no Internet and no phone order business. I think they have made a conscious decision to focus on building their store business, hiring more people to offer fast, accurate and convenient customer service on site. However, in today’s market, offering store business only is not complete customer service. Customers want and expect both!

I don’t need to tell you how much the Internet has changed the way we live, interact and shop. During the five years I spent working at a major luxury retailer, I witnessed a substantial decline in the number of customers visiting the store over the years. Many of those customers have stayed loyal to the company but have moved more of their shopping to the company’s website. Will my old employer and their competitors look at closing stores when the next downturn forces them to look at reducing costs to stay profitable? I bet you they will. At least, we are already seeing a trend of slowing down the opening of new stores.

Will the Internet completely take over store business? No, I don't think so. As the New Yorker article explains, there is still an important role for a positive in-store experience and for customer service in the fashion industry. Especially for luxury retailers, the high margin is mainly built from customer service. Honestly, based on my personal experience, for basic items like T-shirts, casual pants etc., I don’t see a big quality difference from the products one finds in JCPenney or Kohl’s compared to full-line retailers. What customers are paying for is the service. We expect salespeople to tell us honestly and competently what colors look good on us, and if the fit is right etc. If they don’t meet this basic expectation, there is almost no reason to go to the store, other than to have to have some visual stimulation. (This is part of what hurt electronics retailers like Best Buy - people looking at the product in the store, and then ordering online from Amazon where they can get a lower price, if they aren’t getting great service anyway.)

For retailers with a storefront business, I believe there are four key elements that will bring success even against online retailers:

1. Intelligent store design - making the store highly visually appealing, items easy to find and the store easy to navigate
2. Having the right selection of products in stock and available
3. Providing excellent in-store service
4. Hiring well (and enough)

By successfully executing on these four elements, customers will come back to you either online or offline. None of this is easy, but neither is putting together and operating an online supply chain. The continued migration of customers to the Internet is unstoppable, but stores will continue to provide a vital human link in the minds of customers as part of their overall relationship with the brand.

Professional summer style

Summer is my favoriate season of the year.  The Texas heat does not bother me much.  I love the slower pace, more relaxed attitude and of course more swimming time!  I love the fact it is practically effortless to get dressed, a white top with a skirt or denim shorts, a pair of flat sandals, and a hat, or an easy dress. 

But, what about dressing for professional business enviornment? How can you be office-appropriate, stay cool, and still enjoy the best of summer style? 

Read on for some helpful tips from my teacher Carol Davidson from Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. 

Crack the code. What's considered to be appropriate business attire varies by geography, industry, company, and corporate culture. That said, you should always remember that business comes first in any business casual equation. For clarification, consult your official company dress code if you have one. If not, take some visual cues from what your company's authority figures are wearing. When in doubt about a particular item, ask yourself the following question: "Would this clothing item be worn at the beach, park, or pool?" If the answer is yes, you should probably not wear it to work.

Too much of a good thing? In general, exposed skin sends a less-than business-like message, so avoid showing too much. If you decide to go sleeveless, avoid tank tops, halters, and camisoles. Instead, opt for a sleeveless style with more coverage and a modest neckline. Be sure you have a jacket or cardigan at the ready, in case you're called into an unexpected meeting. Remember that balance is the key to coverage.If you are wearing a skirt, pair it with a ¾ or long sleeve blouse. Similarly, if you are wearing a sleeveless top, opt for pants.

Lighten up. When it comes to keeping cool, it's all about the fabric.  Natural fibers pull heat away from your body, keeping you happily air conditioned.  A dress made of rayon may appear lightweight and floaty, but it will do nothing other than trap heat.  Look for clothing contents that include cotton, linen, and hemp, and avoid high percentages of rayon, polyester and nylon. Color also plays an important role in beating the heat.  The darker values attract high temperatures, so opt for lighter ones which actually deflect the sun and are more relevant for the season.  As a side note, lighter fabrics are sometimes sheer.  Remember to check your reflection under bright lighting to make sure your undergarments don't show under that pesky fluorescent office lighting.  Very often a little cami can go a long way.

Say "yes" to the dress. Dresses are the easiest way to look effortlessly chic in warm weather. With so many shapes and styles to choose from, there's something for everyone. For work, considering keeping the silhouette simple, but opt for a pop of color or one of the tribal, tropical, or floral patterns that are so strong this season. With your legs on display, attention to grooming is a must. In addition to shaving, waxing, self-tanning and the like, you can also apply a bit of concealer to cover bites, bruises, or cuts. BTW, in case you are wondering... dresses and skirts worn to the office should be long enough that they reach the top of your knees when standing.

Put your best foot forward. I hate to break the news, but not only are flip flops never appropriate for the office, they're not even suitable for the commute.  (You never know who you might run into on the street or in the elevator.)  Instead, opt for a more office-appropriate peep-toe pump or slingback. A dressy sandal can also do the trick, provided that there's a fair amount of coverage. A great pedicure not only completes your look, but is also soothing to hot and tired feet.

In general, as temperatures rise and dress codes relax, you'll want to pay extra attention to the finishing touches such as grooming and accessories. Ditto for clothing maintenance. Remember, when it comes to summer office attire, no need to sweat it! With these few simple tips, you can keep it cool, casual, and professional...and embrace summer in style!